As reported by Times.
Illegal Units In Lucknow Turning Tallow Into Clarified Butter, Selling Them Under Brand Names
He works as a dailywage earner in the city’s animal disposal dump, sorting carcasses into hides and bones that are sold later. But this sixty-something man takes great pride in his other art—one that turns animal fat into ‘desi ghee’.
The lean and gruff Fazal (name changed) is known in these parts as the best karigar and claims to have a long and worthy army of “shagirds who are doing quite well for themselves’’. The old man who works near Dubagga vegetable mandi in Chhanduia, 15 km off the city limits, just loves to make ghee—one that comes at a premium at that.
“The kind that looks, tastes and smells exactly like desi ghee. He (Fazal) gives it cream colour and even manages to rustle up little daanaas (granules) to complete the look,’’ boasts Hari Om, a colleague-cum-admirer, who goes on to say that even experts would be unable to distinguish it from the real thing or even believe that Fazal extracts his pound of ghee from a dead animal. The centre for all this activity is a dump hidden from public eyes and run for years by Rameshwar, who had an annual contract with the Lucknow Municipal Corporation.
Carcasses of stray cows, buffaloes, calves, horses and donkeys among other species—numbering 20 to 30 daily—are brought here on hand carts, rickshaws and four-wheelers. Workers turn them into neat piles of bones, hide, horns and hooves to be sold later. But charbi, the subcutaneous layer of fat between the skin and muscles and even different body parts like abdominal cavity, is in greater demand, say all the workers here.
A visit to the dump on Friday afternoon presented a gory site. Workers smelling strongly of hooch, looked busy unmindful of the stench and filth. During the 45-minute stay, the TOI team counted at least three hand carts ferrying back charbi. The pullers were suspicious of the strangers on the spot.
But Fazal did not mind sharing the trade secrets, under conditions of anonymity, with potential clients who he believed run a local bakery chain. “Any one can set up a ghee-making unit. All you need is a chulha and the big karahi that is used by halwais and a special ladle fitted with a sieve. The stuff is poured in and melted on a high flame. The fat comes off without much effort,’’ he explained.
There are at least 150 families engaged in this business in Lucknow. Earlier, these units were found in peripheral towns, specially Barabanki. TOI had carried a report with photographs of a godown of such ‘desi ghee’ made from tallow about six years back. Now these ghee units are said to be scattered all over the city in Aishbagh, Madhepur, Haiderganj crossing, Haddikheda in Rajajipuram, Kakori, Kasaibara areas. “The price ranges between Rs 18 and Rs 25 per kg with the A-grade stuff made by Fazal costing extra,’’ said Hari Om (name changed).
He said that for bulk purchase the right person is Kallu of Haddikheda—his USP using popular brand names on the tins—or Rahim and Liyakat bhai. “The latter has his factory near Haiderganj crossing,’’ confides an understudy of Fazal. “But if the demand is only two-three tins, then we can get you the stuff immediately.’’ TOI learnt that some ghee made with tallow is also being marketed using popular brand labels. “Sample it and then you will never go elsewhere,’’ said the one who handles sales. “Safe and best for cooking anything you fancy. Just take care not to store it for long.’’ His client list includes “buyers not only from some city eateries but also from Kanpur and even Delhi’’.
Just as Fazal begins to open up, a cart puller warns him into clamming up. And the responses turn guarded. Asked how he can be contacted, Hari Om chips in, “You give us your mobile number. We will call you up. You will get timely delivery. Ab aap uska sabun aur mombatti banao ya kabab aur samosa, aap jano, hamari zimmedari nahi hai.’’
Veterinary expert Dr N D Sharma said: “The tallow ghee poses no health hazard. Once boiled all germs in the fat are eliminated.’’ (All names of those involved with tallow ghee business have been changed)
Illegal Units In Lucknow Turning Tallow Into Clarified Butter, Selling Them Under Brand Names
He works as a dailywage earner in the city’s animal disposal dump, sorting carcasses into hides and bones that are sold later. But this sixty-something man takes great pride in his other art—one that turns animal fat into ‘desi ghee’.
The lean and gruff Fazal (name changed) is known in these parts as the best karigar and claims to have a long and worthy army of “shagirds who are doing quite well for themselves’’. The old man who works near Dubagga vegetable mandi in Chhanduia, 15 km off the city limits, just loves to make ghee—one that comes at a premium at that.
“The kind that looks, tastes and smells exactly like desi ghee. He (Fazal) gives it cream colour and even manages to rustle up little daanaas (granules) to complete the look,’’ boasts Hari Om, a colleague-cum-admirer, who goes on to say that even experts would be unable to distinguish it from the real thing or even believe that Fazal extracts his pound of ghee from a dead animal. The centre for all this activity is a dump hidden from public eyes and run for years by Rameshwar, who had an annual contract with the Lucknow Municipal Corporation.
Carcasses of stray cows, buffaloes, calves, horses and donkeys among other species—numbering 20 to 30 daily—are brought here on hand carts, rickshaws and four-wheelers. Workers turn them into neat piles of bones, hide, horns and hooves to be sold later. But charbi, the subcutaneous layer of fat between the skin and muscles and even different body parts like abdominal cavity, is in greater demand, say all the workers here.
A visit to the dump on Friday afternoon presented a gory site. Workers smelling strongly of hooch, looked busy unmindful of the stench and filth. During the 45-minute stay, the TOI team counted at least three hand carts ferrying back charbi. The pullers were suspicious of the strangers on the spot.
But Fazal did not mind sharing the trade secrets, under conditions of anonymity, with potential clients who he believed run a local bakery chain. “Any one can set up a ghee-making unit. All you need is a chulha and the big karahi that is used by halwais and a special ladle fitted with a sieve. The stuff is poured in and melted on a high flame. The fat comes off without much effort,’’ he explained.
There are at least 150 families engaged in this business in Lucknow. Earlier, these units were found in peripheral towns, specially Barabanki. TOI had carried a report with photographs of a godown of such ‘desi ghee’ made from tallow about six years back. Now these ghee units are said to be scattered all over the city in Aishbagh, Madhepur, Haiderganj crossing, Haddikheda in Rajajipuram, Kakori, Kasaibara areas. “The price ranges between Rs 18 and Rs 25 per kg with the A-grade stuff made by Fazal costing extra,’’ said Hari Om (name changed).
He said that for bulk purchase the right person is Kallu of Haddikheda—his USP using popular brand names on the tins—or Rahim and Liyakat bhai. “The latter has his factory near Haiderganj crossing,’’ confides an understudy of Fazal. “But if the demand is only two-three tins, then we can get you the stuff immediately.’’ TOI learnt that some ghee made with tallow is also being marketed using popular brand labels. “Sample it and then you will never go elsewhere,’’ said the one who handles sales. “Safe and best for cooking anything you fancy. Just take care not to store it for long.’’ His client list includes “buyers not only from some city eateries but also from Kanpur and even Delhi’’.
Just as Fazal begins to open up, a cart puller warns him into clamming up. And the responses turn guarded. Asked how he can be contacted, Hari Om chips in, “You give us your mobile number. We will call you up. You will get timely delivery. Ab aap uska sabun aur mombatti banao ya kabab aur samosa, aap jano, hamari zimmedari nahi hai.’’
Veterinary expert Dr N D Sharma said: “The tallow ghee poses no health hazard. Once boiled all germs in the fat are eliminated.’’ (All names of those involved with tallow ghee business have been changed)
